VOLUME 1- History/Curation 1.'Miriam Schapiro and "Femmage": Re?ections on the Con?ict between Decoration and Abstraction in Twentieth-Century Art', Norma Broude Broude, N. and Garrard, M.D. (eds) Feminism and Art History: Questioning the Litany (New York: Harper & Row, 1982), pp. 315-330. 2.'Outside In: Making Sense of the Deliberate Concealment of Garments within Buildings', Dinah Eastop Textile: The Journal of Cloth and Culture, 4(3) (2006), 238-254. 3.'The Fold: Baroque and Postmodern Draperies', Gen Doy Drapery: Classicism and Barbarism in Visual Culture (London and New York: I.B. Tauris, 2002), pp. 139-175. 4.'Land of Linen', Elizabeth Wayland Barber Women's Work: The First 20,000 Years (New York and London: W.W. Norton and Co., 1994), pp. 185-206. 5."Guinea Cloth': Production and Consumption of Cotton Textiles in West Africa before and during the Atlantic Slave Trade', Colleen E. Kriger Riello, G., Parthasarathi, P. (eds) The Spinning World: A Global History of Cotton Textiles, 1200-1850 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2009), pp. 105-126. 6.'The Ideal World of Vermeer's Little Lacemaker', Peter Dormer Thackara, J. (ed) Design after Modernism (London: Thames & Hudson, 1988), pp. 135-144. 7.'Shifting Currency: The Culture and Economy of the Second Hand Trade in England, c. 1600-1850', Beverly Lemire Palmer, A., Clark, H. (eds) Old Clothes, New Looks: Secondhand Fashion (Oxford: Berg Publishers, 2004), pp. 29-48. 8. 'Re-threading Notes Towards a History of Sewing Thread in Britain', Philip A. Sykas Brooks, M.M. (ed.) Textiles Revealed: Object Lessons in Historic Textile and Costume Research (London: Archetype Publications Ltd., 2000), pp. 123-136. 9. 'Spun Virtue, the Lacework of Folly, and the World Wound Upside-Down Seventeenth-Century Dutch Depictions of Female Handwork', Linda Stone-Ferrier Weiner, A.B., Schneider, J. (eds) Cloth and Human Experience (Washington and London: Smithsonian Institution Press, 1989), pp. 215-242 . 10.'The Interpretation of Surface: Boundaries, Systems and Their Transgression in Clothing and Domestic Textiles, c. 1880-1939', Victoria Kelley Textile: The Journal of Cloth and Culture, 7(2) (2009), 216-235. 11.'Untouchable: Creating Desire and Knowledge in Museum Costume and Textile Exhibitions', Alexandra Palmer Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, 12(1) (2008), 31-63. 12.'A Tapestry of Riddling Links: Universal Contiguity in a. A. Byatt's "Arachne" ', Maria Jesus Martinez Alfaro Journal of the Short Story in English [online], 45, Autumn 2005, online since 01 September 2005. url: http://jsse.revues.org/index454.html 13.'Penelope and the Unravelling of History', Ruth Scheuing Deepwell, K. (ed) New Feminist Art Criticism (Manchester and New York: Manchester University Press, 1995), pp. tbc 14.'The Devil and His Striped Clothes (13th-16th Centuries)', Michel Pastoureau (Translated by Jody Gladding) The Devil's Cloth [The Devil and His Striped Clothes, 13th-16th Centuries] (New York: Columbia University Press, 1991), pp. 7-34. 15.'Value-added Stuffs and Shifts in Meaning: An Overview and Case Study of Medieval Textile Paradigms', Desiree Koslin Koslin, D.G., Snyder, J.E. (eds) Encountering Medieval Textiles and Dress: Objects, Texts, Images (New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2002), pp. 235-249. 16.'Made in Patriarchy: Toward a Feminist Analysis of Women and Design', Cheryl Buckley Margolin, V. (ed) Design Discourse: History, Theory, Criticism (Chicago and London: The University of Chicago Press, 1989), pp. 251-262. 17.'Annie Garnett: The Arts and Crafts Movement and the Business of Textile Manufacture', Jennie Brunton Textile History, 32(2) (2001), 217-238. 18.'Mothers and Babies', John Styles Threads of Feeling: The London Foundling Hospital's Textile Tokens, 1740-1770 (London: Paul Holberton Publishing, 2010), pp. 63-69. 19.'Patterns of Respectability: Publishing, Home Sewing and the Dynamics of Class and Gender 1870-1914', Christopher Breward Burman, Barbara (ed.) The Culture of Sewing (Oxford: Berg, 1999), pp. 21-31. 20.'Stitching a Life in "Pen of Steele and Silken Inke": Elizabeth Parker's circa 1830 Sampler', Maureen Daly Goggin Daly, Maureen and Foweks Tobin, Beth (eds), Women and the Material Culture of Needlework and Textiles (Farnham: Ashgate, 2009), pp. 31-49. 21.'Artefact-based Approaches: Display and Interpretation', Lou Taylor The Study of Dress History (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2002), pp. 3-23. 22.'Collecting the Contemporary: "Love Will Decide What Is Kept and Science Will Decide How It Is Kept" ', Sue Prichard Textile, 3(2) (2005), 150-165. 23.'The Cod-piece - A Renaissance Fashion between Sign and Artefact', Thomas Luttenberg The Medieval History Journal, 8(1) (2005), 49-81. 24.'The Skin and White Linen', Georges Vigarello 25.'Rumpelstiltskin's Bargain: Folklore and the Merchant Capitalist Intensi?cation of Linen Manufacture in Early Modern Europe', Jane Schneider Weiner, Annette B. and Schneider Jane (eds) Cloth and Human Experience (Smithsonian Books, 1989), pp. 177-213. VOLUME 2 - Production (including Sustainability) 1.'Towards a Poetics of Workmanship', David Brett Rethinking Decoration: Pleasure & Ideology in the Visual Arts (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2005), pp. 222-232. 2.'Reuse, Recycling and Zero Waste', Kate Fletcher 3.'Sustainable 'v' Unsustainable: Articulating Division in the Fashion Textiles Industry', Kim Fraser and Joan Farrer 4.'A Question of Design', William McDonough and Michael Braungart From Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things (New York: North Point Press, 2002), pp. 17-44. 5.'Economic Impact of Textile and Clothing Recycling', Jane Hawley Hethorn, J., Ulasewicz, C. (eds) Sustainable Fashion - Why Now?: A Conversation about Issues, Practices and Possibilities (New York: Fairchild Books, 2008), pp. 207-232. 6.'The Pliable Plane; Textiles in Architecture', Anni Albers Perspecta, 4 (1957), 36-41. 7.'Helping or Hindering? Controversies around the International Second-Hand Clothing Trade', Karen Tranberg Hansen Anthropology Today, 20(4) (2004), 3-9. 8.'The Cultural Biography of Things: Commoditization as Process', Igor Kopytoff Appadurai, A. (ed) The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1986), pp. 64-91. 9.'The Feel for Rugged Texture', Helen Douglas Schoeser, M. and Boydell, C. (eds) Disentangling Textiles: Techniques for the Study of Designed Objects (London: Middlesex University Press, 2002), pp. 177-184, v-viii. 10.'My Fur Ladies: The Fabric of a Nation', Chantal Nadeau Fur Nation: From the Beaver to Brigitte Bardot (London: Routledge, 2001), pp. 7-27. 11.'Creative Entrepreneurs: The Recyding of Second Hand Indian Clothing', Lucy Norris Palmer, A. and Clark, H. (eds) Old Clothes, New Looks (Oxford: Berg, 2005), pp. 119-134. 12. 'Textile Art - Who Are You?', Sarat Maharaj Jefferies, J. (ed) Reinventing Textiles (Winchester: Telos Art Publishing, 2001), pp.7-10. 13.'King Cotton: How America Has Dominated the Global Cotton Industry for 200 Years', Rivoli, P. 14.'An Archeology of Tapestry', Diana Wood Conroy Bachmann, I. and Scheuing, R. (eds) Materials Matters: The Art and Culture of Contemporary Textiles (Canada: YYZ Books, 1998), pp. 55-60. 15.'Anatomy of a Quilt: The Gees' Bend Freedom Quilting Bee', Nancy Scheper-Hughes Anthropology Today, 19(4) (2003), pp. 15-21. 16.'Piecework: Home, Factory, Studio, Exhibit', Maureen P. Sherlock Livingstone, J. and Ploof, J. (eds) The Object of Labor: Art, Cloth, and Cultural Production (Chicago: School of the Art Institute of Chicago Press, 2007), pp. 1-30. 17.'Trade and Trends 750 bc to ad 600', Mary Schoesser World Textiles: A Concise History (London: Thames & Hudson Ltd, 2003), pp. 50-73. 18.'Textiles, Text and Techne', Victoria Mitchell Harrod, T. (ed) Obscure Objects of Desire: Reviewing the Crafts in the Twentieth Century (London: Crafts Council, 1997), pp. 324-332. 19.'Venus in Furs and Selected Letters of Leopold von Sacher-Masoch', Leopold von Sacher-Masoch Venus in Furs and Selected Letters of Leopold von Sacher-Masoch (New York: Blast Books, 1989), pp. 53-90. 20.'De-? ctioning Utopia', Jonathan Chapman De-? ctioning Utopia (PUBLISHER, TOWN AND YEAR TBC), pp 137-186. 21.'I Found Myself inside Her Fur ... ', Catherine Harper Textile, 6(3) (2008), 300-313. 22.'Color and Pattern', Alison Lurie The Language of Clothes (London: Bloomsbury, 1992), pp. 182-209. 23.'Craft, Creativity and Critical Practice', Sue Rowley Rowley, Sue (ed) Reinventing Textiles, volume 1: Tradition and Innovation (Bristol, Telos Art Publishing, 1999), pp. 1-20. 24.'The Artefact as Manufactured Object', Daniel Miller Material Culture and Mass Consumption (Blackwell, London, 1987), pp. 112-121. 25.'No Logo', Naomi Klein No Logo (New York: St Martins Press, 2002), pp. 195-202. Permission needed from St Martin's Press, Harper Collins UK, Random House and Author. 26.'Pixel Patchwork: "Quilting in Time" Online', Brenda Danet Textile, 1(2) (2003), 118-143. 27.'The Contribution of X-radiography to the Conservation and Study of Textile/ Leather Composite Archaeological Footwear Recovered from the Norwegian Arctic', Elizabeth E. Peacock O'Connor, S.A. and Brooks, M.M. (eds) X-radiography of Textiles, Dress and Related Objects (Oxford: Elsevier/Butterworth Heinemann, 2007), pp. 294-301. VOLUME 3 - Science and Technology 1.'Electronic Textiles: Wearable Computers, Reactive Fashion, and Soft Computation', Joanna Berzowska Textile: The Journal of Cloth and Culture, 3(1) (2005), pp. 58-74. 2.'NASA: Advancing Ultra-performance', Cara McCarty McQuaid, M. (ed) Extreme Textiles: Designing for High Performance (Princeton Architectural Press, 2005), pp. 138-161. 3.'The Future of Fibres and Fabrics', Sarah E. Braddock Clarke Braddock Clarke, S.E. and O'Mahoney, M. (eds) Techno Textiles 2: Revolutionary Fabrics for Fashion and Design, Bk. 2 (London: Thames & Hudson, 2007), pp. 12-31. 4.'Engineered Textiles', Marie O'Mahony Braddock Clarke, S.E. and O'Mahoney, M. (eds) Techno Textiles 2: Revolutionary Fabrics for Fashion and Design, Bk. 2 (London: Thames & Hudson, 2007), pp. 52-75. 5.'1440: The Smooth and the Striated', Gilles Deleuze and Felix Guattari A Thousand Plateaus, Capitalism & Schizophrenia (Minneapolis: University of Minneapolis Press, 1987), pp. 474-500. 6.'Extreme Interfaces', Bradley Quinn Textile Futures: Fashion, Design and Technology (Oxford: Berg, 2010), pp. 245-271, 302-302. 7.'Building Liveness: Imagining Architecture as a Robotic Membrane', Mette Ramsgard Thomsen Proceedings of the Ubiquitous Computing Workshop, 9th International Conference, UbiComp 2007, Innsbruck, Austria, September 16-19, 2007. 8.'The Emotional Wardrobe', Sharon Baurley and Lisa Stead Inn, T. (ed) Designing for the 21st Century: Interdisciplinary Questions and Insights (London: Gower Ashgate, 2007), pp. tbc 9.'Silks as Ancient Models for Modern Polymers', Fritz Vollrath and David Porter Polymer, 50(24) (2009), pp. 5623-5632. 10.'Sewing/Sowing: Cultivating Responsive Geotextiles', Charles Stankievech Beesley, P. (ed) Kinetic Architectures & Geotextile Installations (Cambridge, Ont.: Riverside Architectural Press, 2010), pp. 41-50. 11.'Textile Innovation: Interactive, Contemporary and Traditional Materials', Ros Hibbert Textile Innovation: Interactive, Contemporary and Traditional Materials (London: Line, 2004), pp. 83-97. 12."N' Day: The Dawn of Nylon (1930-50)', Susannah Handley Nylon: The Man-Made Fashion Revolution: A Celebration of Design from Art Silk to Nylon and Thinking Fibres (London: Bloomsbury, 1999), pp. 30-51. 13.'The Future Looms: Weaving Women and Cybernetics', Sadie Plant Body & Society, 1 (1995), pp. 45-64. 14.'Creating Consumers: Gender, Class and the Family Sewing Machine', Nancy Page Fernandez Burman, Barbara (ed) The Culture of Sewing (Oxford: Berg, 1999), pp. 157-168. 15.'On Crafting Humanity: An Interview with Margi Geerlinks, at Home, Rotterdam, Netherlands, November 8, 2006, and email June 2008', Caryn Simonson Textile, 6(3) (2008), 274-285. 16.'Powers and Dangers', Mary Douglas Purity and Danger: An Analysis of Concepts of Pollution and Taboo (London: Routledge (Taylor and Francis), 2002[1966]), pp. 117-140. 17.'Intimate Textiles', Ingrid C. Bachmann Textile, 3(1) (2005), 88-99. 18.'Suicidal Textiles: A Nobel Textiles Project', Carole Collet VOLUME 4 - Identity 1.'Stain', Pennina Barnett Pajaczkowska, C. and Ward, I. (eds) Shame and Sexuality: Psychoanalysis and Visual Culture (Hove and New York: Routledge, 2008), pp. 203-215. 2.'The Domestication of Embroidery', Rozsika Parker The Subversive Stitch: Embroidery and the Making of the Feminine (London: I.B. Taurus and Co. Ltd., 2010), pp. 60-81. 3.'Wedding Presents: Marriage Gifts and the Limits of Consumption, Britain, 1945-2000', Louise Purbrick Journal of Design History, 16(3) (2003), pp. 215-227. 4.'On Stuff and Nonsense: The Complexity of Cloth', Claire Pajaczkowska Textile: The Journal of Cloth and Culture, 3(3) (2005), pp. 220-249. 5.'Maja Bajevic: The Matrix of Memory', Bojana Pejic Textile: The Journal of Cloth and Culture, 5(1) (2007), pp. 66-87. 6.'Autobiographical Patterns', Janis Jefferies Autobiographical Patterns. n.paradoxa, Online issue 4, (1997), pp. 14-21. http://web.ukonline.co.uk/n.paradoxa/ 7.'Black Arts: O Mia Anima Nera', Derek Jarman Chroma [Black Arts: O Mia Anima Nera] (London: Vintage, 1994), pp. 137-142. 8.'Material of Culture, Fabric of Identity', Neil Jarman D. Miller (ed) Material Cultures: Why Some Things Matter (London: UCL Press), pp. 121-145. 9.'Symbol, Pattern and the Unconscious: The Search for Meaning', Jane Graves Schoeser, M. and Boydell, C. (eds) Disentangling Textiles: Techniques for the Study of Designed Objects (London: Middlesex University Press, 2002), pp. 45-53, v-viii. 10.'Kente and Its Image Outside of Ghana', D.H. Ross Wrapped in Pride: Ghanian Kente and African American Identity (Los Angeles: UCLA Museum of Cultural History, 1998), pp. 150-187. 11.'Freud, Fabric, Fetish', Anne Hamlyn Textile: The Journal of Cloth and Culture, 1(1) (2003), pp. 8-26. 12.'The Topology of Anne Wilson's Topologies', Kathryn Hixson Anne Wilson: Unfoldings (Massachusetts College of Art (catalogue), 2002), pp. tbc 13.'Veils', Michel Serres The Five Senses: A Philosophy of Mingled Bodies (London/New York: Continuum, 2009), pp. tbc 14.'The First Displays: D.C. and S.F., 1987', Cleve Jones and Jeff Dawson Stitching a Revolution: The Making of an Activist (HarperSanFrancisco Publishers, 2000), pp. 122-142. 15.'Embroidering the Motherland: The Fabric of Palestinian National Identity', Tina Sherwell Jefferies, J. (ed) Reinventing Textiles (Vol.2, Gender and Identity) (Winchester: Telos Art Publishing, 2001), pp. 117-130. 16.'Change: The Ephemeral Materiality of Identity', Judy Att?eld Wild Things: The Material Culture of Everyday Life (Oxford: Berg, 2000), pp. 121-148. 17.'Piecing and Writing', Elaine Showalter Miller, N.K. (ed) The Poetics of Gender (New York: Columbia University Press, 1986), pp.222-247. 18.'Stain: On Cloth, Stigma, and Shame', Jenni Sorkin Third Text Issue, 53 (2000-01), pp. 77-80. 19. 'The Ribbon: Objets/Objects', Roland Barthes (Translated by Richard Howard) A Lover's Discourse: Fragments [The Ribbon: objets/objects] (London: Vintage, 1979), pp. 173-174. 20.'The Yellow Wallpaper', Charlotte Perkins Gillman The Yellow Wallpaper (London: Virago, 1981 (? rst published in 1892)), pp.tbc 21.'Textile Punctum: Embroidery of Memory', Otto von Busch Textile Punctum (Selfpassage, 2005), pp. 5-24. www.selfpassage.org 22.'Arachnologies: The Woman, the Text, and the Critic', Nancy K. Miller Miller, Nancy K. (ed) The Poetics of Gender (New York: Columbia University Press, tbc), pp. 270-295. 23.'There's No Place Like Home: Home Dressmaking and Creativity in the Jamaican Community of the 1940s to the 1960s', Carol Tulloch Burman, Barbara (ed) The Culture of Sewing (Oxford: Berg, 1999), pp. 111-125. 24. 'Making Something from Nothing (toward a De? nition of Women's 'Hobby Art')', Lucy Lippard Heresies 4 (1978). 25.'The Needle as the Pen: Intentionality, Needlework, and the Production of Alternate Discourses of Power', Heather Pristash, Inez Schaechterle and Sue Carter Wood Daly, Maureen and Foweks Tobin, Beth (eds) Women and the Material Culture of Needlework and Textiles (Farnham: Ashgate, 2009), pp. 13-29. 26.'Approaching Abjection', Julia Kristeva Powers of Horror: An Essay on Abjection (New York: Columbia University Press, 1982), pp. 1-31. 27.'Narelle Jubelin at Goldsmiths College, London', Catherine Harper Textile, 1(3) (2003), 210-229. 28.'The Sewing Desire Machine', Peter Hobbs Jefferies, Janis (ed) Reinventing Textiles, volume 2, Gender and Identity (Winchester: Telos Art Publishing, 2001), pp. 49-59. 29. 'Migrant Textiles: Burdens, Bundles and Baggage', Barbara Layne Jefferies, Janis (ed) Reinventing Textiles, volume 2, Gender and Identity (Winchester: Telos Art Publishing, 2001), pp. 77-90. 30.'Crimes against Nature', Neil MacInnis Bachman, Ingrid and Scheung, Ruth (eds) Material Matters: The Art and Culture of Contemporary Textiles (Toronto: YYZ Books, tba), pp. 215-231. 31.'The Tiger's Bride', Angela Carter 32.'The Runners as Symbols of Women's History: Wing Two - From the Beginning of Christianity to the Reformation', Judy Chicago 33.'Memory and Objects', Juliet Ash 34.'How All Life Is Lived, in Patches', Jessica Hemmings 35.'Needled Women: Representations of Male Conduct in Mapula Embroideries', Brenda Schmahmann